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Post by chungdanield on Jan 18, 2017 7:53:37 GMT -6
Hey all, first post here!
The crew and I at my shop were discussing whether or not too stick with Jagwire cables for bulk shop use. We've used them for years and haven't had many issues, but I was wondering y'all thought of the others in terms of value.
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peterb
PBMA Mechanic Member
Posts: 25
First Name: Peter
Last Name: Barson
Location: Chicagoland
Shop / Company: Erik's Deerfield
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Post by peterb on Jan 18, 2017 14:10:06 GMT -6
as far as value goes, without doing the math, I bet you won't be able to beat Jagwire. affordable quality. but .... I've heard but never experienced, some component manufacturers won't honor warranty claims unless the shifter is using the proper brand cable. you can pass the additional expense on to the consumer. replace cables and housing for $X with galvanized jagwire, or upgrade for better performance to slick stainless brand specific cables for just a bit more.
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lancetigerblood
PBMA Mechanic Member
Mechanic
Posts: 24
First Name: Lance
Last Name: Hamilton
Location: Calgary
Shop / Company: Bowcycle and Sports
Bio: Drinks lots of beer and coffee.Rides bikes all year. Eats lots of pizza.
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Post by lancetigerblood on Feb 6, 2017 20:56:37 GMT -6
I have been using Shimano cables and housing for the most part. On occasion Sram, BBB or Jagwire. I rarely have issues with Shimano cables or housing. I use a tonne of Optislik cables with SP41 housing, and its great. I find its an easy up sale from the regular stainless offering. The Polymer coated Durace cables are a bit pricey for many customers. The pre-made packages of different levels of quality cables and housing are awesome too.
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Scott A.
San Diego Coalition
Posts: 11
First Name: Scott
Last Name: A
Shop / Company: MJ's Cyclery
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Post by Scott A. on Mar 20, 2018 10:28:31 GMT -6
We run Stainless Shimano for most of our normal repairs and have Optislick available for "nicer" bikes. I'm not thrilled with the DA cables. They're great if you replace them often but if you don't the polymer coating balls up and actually adds a ton of friction to the system. At $20+ a shot replacing them often is not an option for most riders. We have a few on hand for the person that "needs DA" but prefer the Optislick.
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Marzhel Pinto
PBMA Mechanic Member
Mechanic in Transition
Posts: 6
First Name: Marzhel
Last Name: Pintio
Location: 19146
Shop / Company: None at the moment
Bio: Born and raised in Tijuana B.C. Mexico. In the Industry for the past 9 Years. Hope to become a race mechanic sometime in the not so distant future.
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Post by Marzhel Pinto on Mar 26, 2018 21:35:31 GMT -6
We run Stainless Shimano for most of our normal repairs and have Optislick available for "nicer" bikes. I'm not thrilled with the DA cables. They're great if you replace them often but if you don't the polymer coating balls up and actually adds a ton of friction to the system. At $20+ a shot replacing them often is not an option for most riders. We have a few on hand for the person that "needs DA" but prefer the Optislick. I agree with Scott. The coating is too easy to chafe off and add extra friction. I will run cables through some slick honey before installing. I've found that to work like a charm and have had numerous clients explain how much smoother their shifting feels. Also will recommend 5mm Shift housing for 10s Shimano shifters, but only at the cockpit. I've found that routing them along the outside of the bar and 5mm housing and slick honey will lead to a better and easier shift. The added bonus is that clients can get away with not replacing their cables so often and not have to pry bits and pieces of cable from the shifters. We've all gotten pricked by one of them at one time or another.
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Craig Seibert
New Member
Service Manager/occasional event mechanic
Posts: 1
First Name: Craig
Last Name: Seibert
Location: 63005
Shop / Company: Big Shark Bicycle Company
Bio: Raced BMX from '74 til '89 (last 3 years Professionally/Internationally).
Bike Shop wrench since 1987.
Still participate (compete would be too strong of a word) in the occasional Ultra- Endurance MTB race.
Board of Directors Member/Trail Steward Coordinator for Gateway Off Road Cyclists (GORC), the St. Louis Area's IMBA affiliated/501C3 mountain bike advocacy group.
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Post by Craig Seibert on Apr 20, 2018 17:21:39 GMT -6
We run Stainless Shimano for most of our normal repairs and have Optislick available for "nicer" bikes. I'm not thrilled with the DA cables. They're great if you replace them often but if you don't the polymer coating balls up and actually adds a ton of friction to the system. At $20+ a shot replacing them often is not an option for most riders. We have a few on hand for the person that "needs DA" but prefer the Optislick. I agree with Scott. The coating is too easy to chafe off and add extra friction. I will run cables through some slick honey before installing. I've found that to work like a charm and have had numerous clients explain how much smoother their shifting feels. Also will recommend 5mm Shift housing for 10s Shimano shifters, but only at the cockpit. I've found that routing them along the outside of the bar and 5mm housing and slick honey will lead to a better and easier shift. The added bonus is that clients can get away with not replacing their cables so often and not have to pry bits and pieces of cable from the shifters. We've all gotten pricked by one of them at one time or another. My apologies for keeping this old-ish thread active ... As the OP mentioned, bulk (aka File Box) Jagwire cables and housing are cost efficient for the correct application. Have a bike with internal routing (frame or ESPECIALLY handlebar), shifters on the end of their tri/aero/"resting" bars (humor attempt intended), or some other goofy routing that makes you want to just start over with E-Tap? You have now met your Shimano SP-41 housing/Optislick customer. If they have a bike with the polymer coated cable, and do NOT want to replace the cables as required for that type of product, your job is even easier. (Parroting an idea presented to me at the Shimano STEC classes) show the customer a pre-packaged SP-41 cable/housing kit, and build your own out of bulk stock. Assuming you are selling that sort of product in your shop. If your primary repair is a 99 Rockhopper, and you've got to argue with them about replacing the dry rotted tires, please ignore what I just wrote ... Been there, done that, and am lucky to get to play with the things I have roll into our shop.
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